Pacific Heights Uncovered: From Secret Stairs to Bay Views
How to spend a day in Pacific Heights neighborhood.
The very first post from SF Third Places comes from the Pacific Heights neighborhood in San Francisco—a place that becomes more beautiful the better you know it. Through countless walks here, I’ve come to appreciate its secret stairs and breathtaking bay views. I've taken enough friends and visitors on walking tours of Pacific Heights to hit double digits-small personal triumph as a newcomer to the city. After moving from Chicago to Denver and then to the Bay Area, and with a job far removed from the tech world, I knew little about San Francisco before I arrived. I fell in love with San Francisco, not at once but gradually, one view at a time. But I fell in love hard- a love I am only too eager to share. My journey to know SF began right at the Lyon street steps in Pacific Heights, and it feels fitting to begin this newsletter here, too. But before that- coffee!
If you find yourself in Pacific Heights, my choice of bakery in the neighborhood has to be B. patisserie. There is something very pleasant and nostalgic about walking to bakery, with more time than usual to linger over the pages of a book with a cup of coffee. I specifically recall my visit early in January this year- the rainy season in San Francisco. I knew it would rain that day; you could see the clouds from outside the window. But the weather app said no rain for 60 minutes. Yet I spent the first 10 minutes debating whether it was worth for me to step outside of the walk. I had been in the apartment for a bit too long by myself. Yet the reward did not seem obvious- what if I just come back wet and cold and uncomfortable? If it were a sunny day, it would make for a quick decision to step out, but today, was a day for serious cost and benefit analysis. I decided that neighborhood walks in Pacific heights have seldom resulted in regret. So, I set out towards the bakery. B. patisserie successfully manages to be a neighborhood gem all while maintaining a serious fan following in the city. It falls on my route to my Yoga studio, and I am used to seating being available whenever I peek inside on weekday morning and evening. I also feel equal pride passing by it on weekends when the lines are a block long- the contrast gives me a kick. I was making a mental note of never coming here on weekends, I would be so stressed to sit at a table knowing people were impatiently waiting outside. Perhaps they were not impatient, but the guilt would make me impatient- defeating the whole point of coming to drinking coffee in a café, where I had come to abandon any sense of time, take extra minutes to sip coffee and read a book a little too long. I walked through the shop window, stopping for mini second. Towards the street end of the shop, on the corner seat was an old lady sitting facing me enjoying her cup, her other hand holding a book. The picture is so vivid in my head. I did not stop to take a photo, it did not seem appropriate to disturb a balance that was just right. Her calm demeanor, bright forehead and a faint smile. Everything was just right. In that moment- the walk was worth it. She was the answer to my internal dilemma seconds ago, it was well worth coming here. Anyway, don’t skip the seasonal pastry and always get the kouign-amann. The woman next to me traveled all the way from Pacifica to pick some up for her friends, proving just how far people are willing to go for this treat.
As one walks from the café onto the views, a worthy pit stop is the neighborhood library- the SPFL Presidio branch library. As the boundaries of neighborhood bleed into one another, it is hard to call a library, that too public library as of that only one neighborhood. Libraries draw in people from all corners, and there's something delightful about overhearing conversations among kids. Below a chat between a five year old and his nanny, reproduced as was heard.
Nanny: I was born in Philippines. I had a friend with pet monkey
Kid: who is Philippines
Nanny: it’s a county
Kid * very obligated to teach something back* do you know Herman
Nanny: who is Herman
Kid: a worm
Nanny: from your stories? Cartoon?
Kid: No. *kid refuses to provide any further clarification*
From the library to the Lyon Street Steps is a steep climb. But in SF, steep climbs nearly always reveal stunning views. At the top of this ‘secret’ staircase is an expansive view of the bay, overlooking the Marina District, Palace of Fine Arts and the Alcatraz Island framed by the rolling Sausalito hills in the background. The gardens are manicured, blooming with magnolias in the march and bursting with purple wisteria in April. The end of the staircase opens up to the “Grove High School” filming location for those of us who are The Princess Diaries fan. Even as I am huffing and puffing my way back up, I attest to this being one of the best viewpoints. The path next to the stairs cuts through the eucalyptus forest but that’s a post for another day! On top of these stairs, is the most magnificent stretch of houses in the city if not America, called the Billionaires’ row (specifically the section of Broadway between Divisadero and Lyon St.)
It’s the perfect place for a leisurely stroll. The beauty of walking around in the city of San Francisco is that the city generously rewards curiosity. Even at Lyon street steps, you are exactly one block away from stumbling upon an even lesser-known stairway, another secret passage, a slice of SF just for yourself- the Baker street steps. This quieter staircase offers its own unique views of the Bay and the Palace of Fine Arts. Tucked just out of sight, these steps invite you to slow down and savor the moment. To quote Georgia O’Keeffe “To see takes time.”
End the walk on a high, quite literally at Alta plaza park. Perched high on a lush green hill in Pacific Heights, Alta Plaza offers intimate views unique to each corner. From Pierce and Jackson, you’ll catch glimpses of the bay, while the opposite end at Pierce and Clay opens to sweeping views of the city and Mount Sutro. With its hilltop location, there is always a 50% chance to be slapped in the face by winds, but its also the perfect place to find two techies (it is SF after all) on their first date, or old friends catching up with their dogs in the dedicated dog park.
If you want to linger, walk down Fillmore Street to eat, drink, people watch, have an ice cream, and be merry! I recommend Jane on Filmore for breakfast, Blue Bottle for the coffee and Philmore Creamery as the perfect ice-cream spot. The street comes alive during the annual jazz festival, another excuse to visit this part of town!
SF Third Places is a love letter from the city, full of warmth, delivered straight to your inbox. Each post explores the distinctive character of a neighborhood- uncovering hidden gems, local stories, and the people who make each place feel like home. In this corner of the internet, San Francisco’s streets, cafes, parks, and bookstores come alive through stories and snapshots. Subscribe to receive an intimate portrayal of the city often missing in a 60 second Instagram reel.
From SF with Love
